Cape Town: Touring the Best and Worst

Today was an interesting mix of good and bad. The scheduled events involved HIV/AIDS education from the Desmond Tutu Organization and the only children's hospital in southern Africa. For me, it was a mix of education and emotional impact. I have never really been a huge fan of hospitals, because it is a place where something bad will always happen (excluding MGH in Boston which is swarming with good looking women). Although it is good to have an impact every once in a while, the education was most useful to me.

The Tutu parts of the three stop tour offered a lot of technical information, but also gave insight into the overall progress, and issues, of the struggle against AIDS in Africa. One thing that every speaker noted, and this was a source of some pride, was that they rely heavily on funding from the United States. In some instances, there are operations that rely entirely on US taxes. If it's not funded by the government, it is often sponsored by the American pharmaceutical industry. I did have an idea that we did an awful lot as a country to help, but whats most interesting is how the locals recognize this. The common belief among US citizens these days is that the world hates us because of how we operate our foreign policy. But, from what I have seen and heard when talking to the South Africans is that they are greatly appreciative and aspire to achieve what we have. It is not hatred, but rather love that they show.

This love, and ambition, sparks a lot of curiosity for me economically. Not only is Capetown an absolutely beautiful city with countless adventures to have, but it beats with a high pulse. Even the most impoverished areas are moving towards creating their very own version of a "South African Dream". Entrepreneurship is beginning to flourish and Capetown's middle class is starting to expand as Jo'berg's did over the last years. An important point to be made about the economic status is that Zuma's presidency will have an incredible impact on its future. The test will be given during the rest of this year and the answer will be clear until 2014.

The issue of AIDS and politics got discussed later in our reflection period. As you may have guessed, the virus is an extremely pertinent issue within the country. The problem, under our consensus and also among many of the local students is the leadership of the country. When the current president believes that HIV will not be spread as long as you shower after sex, there is no doubt that there will be extensive misconceptions among the public, particularly the poor. I believe in this next generation in their ability to change the norms, stop the rape, and encourage education, but I also believe that the country cannot wait for our generation to take power. The current leaders need to be changed, forced to listen and learn, and send the right message to their country. You cannot expect South Africans to recognize the danger in multiple sexual partners when the president himself has three, and others have as many as thirteen. There are many issues that need to be sorted out, need fixing, but the potential is there and that offers some hope.

On a complete aside, another unique cultural experience this morning. I walked into TsIBA this morning with Angela and the only students in our classroom were Nikki and Allister, two South Africans. After our greetings Nikki asked if I wanted a sweet candy. I said sure and she handed over a Hall's cough drop. Ummm... what? Apparently they are considered candies here. Haha...

In between the educational part, I had perhaps my favorite one hour adventure of the trip. In between the research center and Tutu presentation, we stopped off at Capetown's botanical garden and had exactly one hour to explore. We looked at the map and under Esther's warning, we decided to try to make it to the absolute back of the park to the waterfall. It was supposedly a 45 minute walk each way, but this is Africa, so screw it. In my head, I imagined my doodle from the day before, of a giant waterfall above an even larger pool of water. Ideally, something I could jump into from a cliff. With optimism in my mind and my mood finally beginning to turn back to where it should be, we booked it.



With a glance at the map, we knew we would have to take Smut's Trail most of the way and believed whole heartedly that more direction would come with time. The beginning of the trail was uphill, not un-speed-walkable, but certainly a challenge to maintain. The dress shoes weren't helping anyone either.

As we moved onward the trail narrowed. A path turned into elongated steps that wound around impressive tree formations. Ignoring the unique plants back in the main part of the park, these were some of the strangest things I had seen yet. The stairs soon grew steeper. And steeper. I was getting seriously winded at this point but noticed that the stairs seemed to level off up ahead. I made it to the top, turned the corner, and saw my hell. If this wasn't a stairway to a horrible horrible heaven, then I didn't know what was.

The shirt gets unbuttoned and jacket thrown to the side. At the advice of a group walking and smoking hookah at the same time (they were carrying the whole thing with them), we took a right at the next clearing towards the sound of water. What we saw next was not as expected, but more fulfilling than I ever imagined. There was no pool of water, but rather the continuation of a stream. The waterfall was not rushing over a cliff, but was strong enough to make a mild thunder. Not satisfied with the view from afar, the climbing began. Dress shoes again were a hindrance, but I made it to a nice ledge where I could get pictures and pose for more. Seeing the ease of my climb, John, Christine, and Riley joined me in my oasis. The cool water splashed from behind, easing the perspiration that persisted from our ascent to the falls. Refreshing and rejuvenating, I smiled, genuinely and fully for the first time that day.

You see, it can be difficult to be happy at times, easy at others. When it gets hard, it is moments like these that can reverse the cycle, buck the trend, and bring you back to the place where you belong. It is not always permanent, but for now I smile as I stare into the skyline, into the mountain, and into the moon.

The rest of the day went on as described before. Went shopping for food, and watched a movie with a few in the group. It was not the best day, but it contained the best moment and in the end that is what is remembered.


Peace and Love from Africa,
Scott Stephen Smith