Day 2: The Day of the Dance
Today was just as spectacular as the last. It did, however, start a little rough. I came back to the room late last night because I was writing downstairs. I trusted that Jason had set the alarm for tomorrow at 7:00, but to be sure I took my personal clock and did the same.
Jason wakes up to a knocking on our window from our neighbors coming to make coffee as we agreed the day before. Unfortunately, it was 7:30 and we both forgot to actually turn the alarms on after changing the time. Luckily I had no need for a shower and was able to get dressed and have a short breakfast of olive bread and butter. Jason then went into a total panic when he could not find his wallet. We left the room with this issue unresolved and completely on his mind.
We paid our first visit to a TSiBA classroom in the morning and got visited by Ahmed Kathrada. For those who don't know, which I didn't until the night before, Mr. Kathrada was a political prisoner on Robben Island alongside Nelson Mandela. He was an extremely interesting man and quite humble for the amount he has accomplished. Like many of the prisoners who served during that time, he became one of the ANC leaders following his released and has been a key figure in the last 15 years of South Africa's democracy. One thing I found particularly interesting were his stories about staying in prison. There were, on average, 850 prisoners on the island during any given time. Many of these people had no education, were illiterate, and had no hopes of ever receiving a degree. However, many of the prisoners were already very well educated holding professions as doctors and lawyers. So, in secret, they were able to teach the others to a level that would make them eligible for a college degree upon their release. The phrase that passed around during this time was "each one teach one." It has been noted that no prisoner left the island without being able to read. This surprised me, although it supports everything I have observed of the South African culture thus far.
After our discussion was over, we headed over to the V&A Waterfront, the tourist heavy mall that Capetown is known for. A truly beautiful place, but also one that you must keep close guard on your wallet. On the bus ride over I began speaking with three of the guys from TSiBA. (I must preface this part by indicating that the use of White, Black, and Colored as racial descriptions is accepted and the most correct way to do it within South Africa). They were black as far as my perspective was concerned, so I assumed that they spoke Xhosa, the regional language. However, these students were actually colored. It is hard to draw a distinction visually because in the US there is not a cultural distinction drawn between a light skinned African American and a dark skinned African American. That is not the case here, however. Blacks are considered completely of African decent, whereas coloreds, who tend to be of lighter skin tone and of a mixed heritage. They usually will speak Afrikaans and English only. This became important during Apartheid when determining one's rights and status within society. Blacks had the least, then coloreds, then Indians and Asians, and then the Whites. While it was largely spoke of as White and non-white, there were differences in treatment. It is important now as the Black Economic Empowerment process continues, as coloreds are not entitled to the same benefits as pure blacks are. This is a really hot debate within the country, particularly this area, but the students are typically willing to carry out the conversation in a very respectable way. The lines fall similar to an affirmative action debate.
I did pick up my first joke out of all this... What does a black person in South Africa call a hijacking? Affirmative repossession. I got a laugh out of it.
So we hopped on the ferry at the V&A Waterfront that offered a simply spectacular view back at the city as we traveled to Robben Island. Another unexpected picturesque warm day didn't hurt the cause either. (Jealousy ensue).
Robben Island was a really interesting experience. Seeing the cell that Mandela lived in for so many years, as well as the wealth of history that other points in the island had to offer was truly a treat. The tour guides, unfortunately, were not all that interesting and didn't give too much for me to write about. I did learn, however, that The Roots (great band) was formed by its members while imprisoned on the island. The one thing that struck me on the tour was our guide's farewell. It may have been rehearsed but I can't be certain because it fits so well into what I have already seen. He told us that Robben Island, and the whole of South Africa is a truly special place, but that it belongs to the world. The people who live here are simply its custodians. It was an interesting way to hear it put, as I don't think you would ever hear such a thing from an American or European.
Above is Nelson Mandela's Prison Cell
Saw penguins in Africa... huh.
After the island I had to make an emergency stop by our apartment to move all our stuff to a new one across the hall. I was skeptical at first but soon realized that the new place was bigger, had a better view, and a full kitchen. So, excitement soon ensued. I also found Jason's wallet in the fridge, which was a big deal for him, and lit Lindsey's scented candle that made our new place smell phenomenal. I was against the idea of bringing it but I am glad I did. (thanks mom)
The next adventure was to Cafe Africa. We were separated from the group so we had to take a taxi from the apartment, and after getting dropped off in the wrong place, walking down a few dark streets, and getting another cab, we made it. It was a TWELVE course menu, each course consisting of traditional cuisine from a different country in Africa. There was singing, drumming, tribal painting, and an all around great time. We really started to bond with the TSiBA students as they were just as interested in partying it up as we were. I tried some apple soda, which was decent, and then the food started coming out. I cannot describe how full I am right now, but pictures throughout the meal should do the trick...
The cheesy bread to the left was absolutely amazing, the chicken, ostrich, and mussels were also just spectacular. I don't want to trash on my dad's sweet potatoe pie, but the sweet potatoes were without a doubt the best I have EVER had. The taste was so much richer than anything I have ever had before. The only thing I didn't like was the spinach, which had some sort of sweet and earthy spice combination that I couldn't put my finger on. Everything else was literally out of this world.
They do a really good job here creating an atmosphere, enjoyable for not only tourists but the locals as well.
Everyone had great conversation, great food, and a great time overall. There was, perhaps, another reason for all the smiles. On the boat before I had asked Nqobile to teach me an African song. She said she would have to think about it and it was not until dinner that she had her plan set. The deal was she would teach me the song and dance that went along, and I would perform it in front of the entire restaurant. Naturally I agreed. I got the words wrong and danced like a white boy, but the cheers were all I needed for motivation.
[Picture of me dancing]
There is also a video...
Another great day and absolutely fantastic experience. The weather continues to look good for the week, continuing the trend of SA's winter being more pleasant than Boston's summer.
Peace and Love from Africa,
Scott Stephen Smith
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